On a sunny June morning, I met an extraordinary woman – Maria Nowińska. A person who is difficult to describe in just a few words. Co-founder, designer, and creative director of Novinska Handbags. She loves to travel the world, having lived abroad for many years, constantly drawing inspiration for her collections. We talked about creating a women’s brand for mindful and discerning customers, being uncompromising and acting in accordance with one’s values, traditional craftsmanship, ecological alternatives in fashion, and true luxury, sensitivity to others, and authenticity. Join me on a journey through the world of Maria Nowińska!
Who is Maria Nowińska?
It’s hard to answer briefly. 😉 I am a creative person who needs to create like air, and my challenge is to combine this passion with business, to create in harmony with myself while building a growing company.
Coming from a small town near Warsaw, I always knew there was something beyond my own little box. I have repeatedly challenged myself, stepping out of my limitations. Each of us has limitations stemming from the environment we grow up in. I travelled a lot, lived in Italy, where I first encountered craftsmanship, with true maestros who create beautiful things, beautiful designs, giving attention and care to every piece they make. It enchanted me.
Later, I lived in Asia for seven years, and this multicultural background strongly resonates in my work. I feel and emphasize my Eastern European roots even more. I brand my company with my surname, Nowińska, which, of course, sounds distinctly Eastern European.
I combine European sophistication with my roots, self-overcoming, and openness to multiculturalism.
And your brand?
It is constantly evolving. I first founded the brand in 2005; it had a different name then, but I was already making my first bags. Along the way, I worked for various fashion houses, designing for others. I call myself a “late bloomer” because I reactivated my brand four years ago (in 2020) but with full awareness of the quality I believe in. For the past two years, I’ve had a completely new quality, fully integrated with myself.
I make classic bags, but it’s “classic with a twist.” I build my brand as timeless, classic design because that’s who I am – I’m somewhat a “person of the middle.” I like balance, I like harmony, I like it in design as well. There’s always a twist, some spice. That’s my distinctive detail.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from diversity. Different cultures, religions, ways of thinking – that has always fascinated me. I knew I would gain some value from it. Someone might say,
“I don’t like green, it’s horrible,” and I would say, “this colour is not mine, but someone used it creatively in an interesting way.”
And I always think like that.
What does it mean to act in harmony with oneself?
I feel that the depth of this phrase has somewhat been lost, but I strongly stand by it – literally, as I sign my brand with my name. I act uncompromisingly. I am involved in every stage of production, I leave a lot of my energy at every stage. It’s not about controlling from above; I simply believe that every stage is a building block that contributes to the final product, and you can feel that energy later. If you have some friction, e.g., something with production, a workshop that’s difficult to work with, or that treats its workers poorly and you turn a blind eye to it, I believe it will always show in the final product.
If you use cheap, non-durable materials or look for shortcuts, it will always show somewhere. You can’t operate entirely without compromise, but there are certain compromises that I won’t make in production.
In the age of modern technology and AI, there is a strong desire to return to craftsmanship, which is a constant element of the Novinska brand’s DNA.
That craft style is a distinctive feature of my bags. It’s prêt-à-porter, but it always has that handmade touch, e.g., some hand stitching so that people feel the quality of the handwork.
I have difficult, original models that require attention and care. I pay artisans well but also expect them to take their time with their work, to avoid shortcuts. I had a problem with this before, but everything changed with the creation of the Craft Cooperative. People who should be celebrated, craftsmen like no others, leatherworkers with 30 years of experience, previously undervalued, working in chaotically managed workshops, working many hours a day, now finally things are changing. I am very excited. The quality of work, but also the quality of life, has dramatically improved for my craftsmen, artisans, and everyone involved. I believe that creating such cooperatives where everyone collaborates and co-creates for a higher good, in a great atmosphere, with great people, is the future of work.
How do you approach ecology in your production? Do you use eco-friendly leather alternatives?
I ensure that the materials I use are natural. I source them from places I know. The leathers I use are production surpluses from major fashion houses, vegetable-tanned, chrome-free leathers. All the tanneries I work with in Italy have certifications from the Sustainable Leather Foundation.
Regarding leather alternatives, I tried working with biomaterials, such as grape leather, cactus, pineapple. However, I found that these materials do not match the functionality of leather. Although they are lightweight, they are not biologically breathable and are highly emissive as petroleum derivatives, and the biomass content in such materials did not exceed 50%, the rest being PVC, or plastic. Often, they are coated with non-eco-friendly materials, like neoprene foams.
I had to rethink the topic of ecology quite a bit because, at some point, I was convinced that it was a bad, unethical material. However, in its unethics, it is the most ethical material, being natural, biodegradable, and a byproduct of other industries. I am waiting for mushroom-based materials, which I believe will be the future. I believe that in 10 years, we will no longer use natural leathers.
What values guide you in creating products?
Every item I create is designed with the user in mind. It must be beautiful, practical, and well-made. I have a silent dialogue with my customer, striving for the highest quality of workmanship and using high-quality materials. I try to connect with my audience’s field before I start creating anything. And it works! I receive very positive feedback from clients who are more receptive and sensitive, and there will be more such people. For example, the entire group of Projectors (a non-energetic type according to Human Design), which makes up practically one-third of society, feels this change and new quality.
What does luxury mean to you?
For me, price is definitely not the indicator. I believe luxury is strongly connected with personalisation. Something is made for someone, even if it’s a serial product. Of course, it’s a challenge to maintain quality and the sense that “it was made for me” in this serial production. But that’s the wow factor; that’s luxury.
I created the term mindful luxury for myself. My bags are made in the ethos of mindful luxury, with attention to creation and to the client. Through my products, I connect with my customers, giving them the experience of this new quality that I create throughout my entire creative and production process. I use my own magic and take care of such “energetic health and safety.”
I believe that every thing has energy, every product. Very often, I program my products before sending them, give them an intention to carry to my clients whatever they need most for their highest good. Whether it’s empowerment, courage, joy, or anything else that strengthens them, it’s interesting how it works.
There are many brands that claim their products are handcrafted, with attention to detail, but in practice, it turns out to be just a trendy slogan. What is your approach to finishing?
For me, details are very, very important. This is most evident in the finishes, where there are no thick seams, just beautifully thinned and wrapped leather at the ends. When I see thick edges, it just bothers me. And the edges covered with paint, often with rubber, crumble unsightly over time. I want my bags to always be beautiful and serve my clients for years. A kind of “made to last.” I recently even thought about introducing a lifetime guarantee. I take full responsibility for what I sign my name to, and I am confident in my product.
What else brings you joy like creating?
My second passion is working with entrepreneurs. On my career path, I had a lot of obstacles to overcome. It’s interesting how our limitations affect our businesses. We can block our financial flow with our mindset. This happened to me many times. Now, I can use all these life lessons and experiences as a mentor working with entrepreneurs.
You mentioned creating a Craft Cooperative; what are your further business plans?
I am now opening a Craft Collective in Warsaw with two shoemakers. We will have a small boutique in central Warsaw, on Tamka Street, in Powiśle, where we will showcase this craftsmanship, individual items made to order, accessories created in single copies.
Apart from that, I am preparing my brand for scaling, and my ambition is to make it global. To be sold worldwide, with a primary focus on the American market, where I am already present, as well as developing in Western Europe and, of course, in Poland. I am attracting a business partner and consciously working on cooperation in business. I also observe that the bigger the companies and corporations, the more they lose their ethical standards. Therefore, I think maintaining ethical standards will be crucial.